Before you Foster

Plan where you will hold them.   Make sure that all  of the following requirements are met.

• Must be escape proof.  If there is a space to get out, they will. Screened windows are a common escape point.  Keep the window closed or reinforce with metal window guards.
• Easy to clean.  Tile, linoleum, laminate and metal are easy to wipe down and clean.We don’t recommend carpets  because they are nearly  impossible to sterilize.  Ringworm, viruses, bacteria and other pathogens can remain in the carpet fibers putting the next group of fosters at risk.
• Separate from other pets. Even healthy looking animals can pass on illnesses to other pets. Your foster space should be enclosed so you can isolate them from other pets.
• No hard-to-reach hiding spots. If your foster space is cluttered or has small places to hide, cats can hide making assessment and socialization impossible.  Having a hiding spot reinforces this behavior.
• Free of dangerous items.  Houseplants,  yarn and string, breakables, electric cords, candles, household cleaning supplies and other items should be removed before they come.

Determine how long can you foster.  

• If you are fostering for a rescue or shelter find out how long you will have them.  Many first time foster parents are suprised by the time committment or disappointed to find out that they can’t be returned when fostering is not longer possible.  If you are fostering for a fellow rescuer, set up and agree to a time frame ahead of time.  Some rescuers find a foster home and then assume that person is going to take over from there.  If you are comfortable following through on getting them altered and placed into homes, that is okay.  If not, find out their expectations ahead of time ahead of time, so there aren’t any surprises..
• If  the kittens or cats aren’t taming down, choose an end point on when they can be returned to their site.  You can’t foster kittens in a warm house  for weeks and then release them outside to chilly fall or winter weather.  And if you wait months, the other members of the colony may not accept them back.  If you are able to hang onto them for the long haul, that is wonderful.  But if you can’t plan your end point ahead of time so they can be humanely released back to their colony.
• If you’ve had them too long to return them or you can’t find a home for them, what will you do?  It helps to think about this before you begin the foster process.  You may already have a “foster failure” living with you.  Sometimes it is because you fall in love, and other times it is because they didn’t tame down enough to find a home.  It is okay to keep a couple foster failures.  But if you start to see a pattern of foster failure and your numbers become a challenge, you need to put limits on your fostering.  One solution is to only foster for shelters that require you to return them.  That way you won’t be tempted to keep them.  Remember, if you find homes for your fosters, you can take in and save more cats and kittens.

Tame Cats and  Kittens

As long as the above criteria are met, tame cats and kittens can be set up in any of the following.

• Un-carpeted offices, bedrooms or bathrooms.  This is the best option for tame cats and kittens because it allows you to interact with them naturally.  And you can spend time with them while doing other things like sleeping, reading or watching TV.
• 4 X 4 Dog Exercise pens with lids.  Midwest brand makes one with a lid.  These are great because you can fit a small cat tree inside and add wire shelves with zip ties or clips.  When you aren’t using them, they fold down flat for easy storage. You can purchase these on Amazon and Chewy. Search words “Midwest Exercise Pen“
• Large dog cages or crates.  Cages are preferable to  plastic crates because you can interact with them easier and the wire sides allow you to add shelves, hammocks or even small cat trees to increase space.
• DIY Cube Cage using  a wire metal cube kit.  We have an example here on our Facebook page

Feral or Scared  Cats

It is nearly impossible to distinquish a scared cat from a feral cat when they are in a trap.  The sweetest lap cat in the world can bite, scratch and growl ferosciously when it feels threatened.  Imagine how you would feel if suddenly abducted and incarcerated by strangers who spoke a different language! So, if the cat is not making friendly overtures, it is best to contain it in a cage while you assess it.  Most cats will reveal their tame nature in a few days, but some cats can take few weeks or more before they feel safe enough to trust you and show their tame side.  Our experience with cats judged to be feral by shelters has shown us that the most end up being tame cats who are just scared.  But be safe and assume feral when planning how to house them during the assessment period.

Caution  

If you are just fostering for a few days  while you wait to get him into a clinic, it may be best to hold them in the trap.  Use a fork divider to put bedding, food, water and a small litter box in the trap. Don’t forget to cover the trap and zip tie the doors closed so they can’t escape.

Take your time and plan out how you are going to transfer the cat from a trap into a cage.  If possible, put the trap in the cage and then open it.  Or go into a small enclosed space like a bathroom and  transfer into a small carrier. Then put the carrier in the cage.

Keep a carrier in the cage.  Most scared or feral cats will hide in the carrier.  That makes it simple when you need to move them or take them to the vet.  Just close the door!